13 Comments
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Betsy's avatar

Here for all of this but especially: love that you write like you talk. I’m so glad you made the venture to long form, even if it was under threat of the ban.

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Elysia Berman's avatar

And even if no one reads it 😂😂😂

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Pea's avatar

I can't say I'm a fashion girly. I've been following your project pan on TT and enjoy the way you style your clothing as I too am a lover of black clothes so it's great to get ideas. I doubt I'll ever be at the stage of curating my wardrobe to how I wish - sustainable, ethical, well made but inclusive for my size(s) - but if I ever get there I feel well guided by you. I've never heard of Chopova Lowena and the skirts look so visually interesting but still entirely wearable

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Elysia Berman's avatar

I think if your closet is even 30% of those things you listed, you’re in a good spot!!!

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Megan's avatar

these Sonya Lee bags are beautiful 😍

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Elysia Berman's avatar

So dreamy!!!

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Anne Rhodes's avatar

I’ve been drooling over a black and red eyelet Chopova Lowena midi skirt that costs 10x what I can afford and I can’t find in my size. Also anyone ever thought just for a split second “What if just a got a belt and some carabiners and…?” No? Oh me neither. Not even once. My brain would never suggest a thing like that 😬

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Elysia Berman's avatar

I feel like there’s gotta be a tutorial on how to DIY online!

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Anne Rhodes's avatar

I’m sure anything I tried to approximate with a pleated skirt would be a disaster…but I do like the idea of experimenting with some carabiner chic!

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Lyndsey Louise Olsen's avatar

Thoughts on Collina Strada’s use & defense of AI in their designs?

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Elysia Berman's avatar

Great question! I could write an entire Substack just about this topic. So as a graphic designer who uses AI frequently for work, there are SO MANY legal limitations around what can be released with AI and how much you have to change the imagery in order for it to be legal for use, which I suspect is definitely the case for as big of a brand as Baggu. I personally am anti-AI from a sustainability standpoint, but the reality of my industry is that it’s an ever-growing fact that we have to use it. I think the thought process behind the collection and use of AI was largely conceptual and she was experimenting with the intersection between the physical and digital, which lots of artists like Refik Anadol (whose generative-AI artworks are featured in the MoMA) are doing in their work. Also the way AI is used to create is still secondary to the actual human hand when it comes to design—Midjourney isn’t super sophisticated yet, and I suspect what happened is they generated a single image using AI, manipulated it in Photoshop or Illustrator, and then created a pattern with it.

So from a creative standpoint, I get it. That said, it was a bizarre choice for a brand who makes such strong commentary on sustainability. And for them to double down after was weird. But I also think it’s extremely silly to cancel a brand over something like that. It’s a questionable choice but I wouldn’t say it’s “problematic” given how many creatives and designers are pushed to use AI these days. You’d have to cancel literally every graphic designer on the planet because Adobe now has implemented AI into all of their programs.

The issue is AI at large, not Collina Strada, in my POV.

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Amanda's avatar

THIS is the post I've been waiting for! I'm just delving into the "fewer, better" approach, and it's great to learn from your experience.

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Jax's avatar

Okay, so I have been living under a rock and it’s why I’m SO thrilled you’re doing Substack. I love your Chopova Lowena skirt so much and I want to learn more about other brands. I’m definitely going to check out Sonya Lee for a new bag.

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